What equipment is needed on a glacier?

What equipment is needed on a glacier?

Do you want to know what equipment is needed to undertake a glacier climb? Here is the essential gear to always have with you.

Informazioni aggiuntive

If your goal is to tackle a climb that involves crossing a glacier, such as climbing to the Capanna Margherita, Mont Blanc, or a simple glacier walk, here’s the essential equipment you need to carry with you! Don’t forget, besides having the right equipment and practicing good behavior with your climbing partners, it is crucial to KNOW HOW TO USE the gear you bring and be familiar with emergency procedures to be self-sufficient during a climb. If you've never done it before, we recommend attending one of our mountaineering courses or glacier self-rescue workshops. Among the many risks you may face while walking on a glacier, the most frequent and classic one is falling into a crevasse. The first way to avoid this, which may seem obvious, is simply not to fall in! What we mean by this is that before even learning a thousand emergency maneuvers, it’s important to understand a glacier, assess the best route, and avoid the more dangerous areas as much as possible. Knowledge of the route and timing during the day are essential for this type of mountaineering climb. Of course, you also need to have the right equipment, know how to tie yourself to the rope with your partner (a rope team of at least two people), manage the risks on the terrain, and, last but not least, be capable of getting out of trouble in an emergency. Now, let’s get to the point: what equipment should you bring? Here’s an indicative list of essential gear (minimum necessary), including recommendations for clothing at the end. **Mountaineering Boots (see photo 1):** Semi-rigid boots with fittings for crampon attachment. We recommend "semi-ramponable" boots with a plastic notch on the heel for better crampon attachment. These boots should be waterproof and warm enough to protect you from snow, ice, and cold temperatures. **Crampons (photo 2):** These are *not* trekking crampons with elastic bindings, but real steel crampons suitable for mountaineering. They should be classic crampons or flat-pointed ones (preferably with 12 points). Depending on the boots you purchase, you can choose the appropriate type of crampon. Tip: Semi-ramponable boots --> semi-automatic crampons with a lever on the heel and a plastic cage for the foot. **Harness:** A classic climbing and mountaineering harness, consisting of a waist belt and two leg loops, all connected by a central ring. There are various sizes, weights, and features; the recommendation is to find the right size and choose one with adjustable leg loops to accommodate the size (and temperature) of your pants. **Ice Axe (photo 3):** A classic T-shaped mountaineering ice axe, with a vertical or slightly curved shaft at the top and a pick and blade at the end. During glacier climbs, the ice axe is mainly used as a walking stick, occasionally used for striking the ice. It’s recommended to have a steel one, 55-60 cm in length. **Rope:** You need dynamic climbing ropes, preferably "single" ropes with a water-repellent (dry) treatment. We recommend a 50-meter dry-treated single rope with a diameter ranging from 8.5 mm to 9.2 mm (a good balance between size, weight, and strength). **Carabiners (photo 4):** We recommend 5-6 locking carabiners suitable for mountaineering and climbing. Among these, a couple of HMS (wide base) and 3-4 D-shaped (smaller) ones. The most common are locking carabiners, but at least one with an automatic locking mechanism (2 or 3 movements) could be useful. **Belay Device:** Always carry a belay device to set up a rope recovery maneuver. Some of the most known devices include the Gi-Gi plate, Petzl Reverso, Black Diamond ATC, or similar (photo 4). **Slings and Cords:** It’s good to have some climbing slings and Kevlar cord. At a minimum, have one 60 cm Kevlar cord, two 120 cm cords, and one 300 cm linear cord (for making the "glacier cord"). This is the essential material, but having a couple of extra slings and cords could be helpful in case of emergency. **Ascenders and Pulleys:** Not mandatory, but worth considering. If you’ve become passionate about glacier travel and do it often, mechanical ascenders like Microtraxion, Duck, RollNrock, or TiBloc can be very useful. **Backpack:** A 25-35 liter mountaineering backpack, with an external attachment for an ice axe and comfortable on your shoulders and back. Avoid using too small or too large backpacks (the bigger the backpack, the more likely we’ll fill it with unnecessary things!). ### Clothing and Accessories to Carry: As with the gear, the following is the minimum necessary clothing to carry, though it’s up to each person to decide how much gear to bring. **Sunglasses:** Must be at least category 3 (preferably category 4) for high protection. The reflection of light on the glacier can be intense, and normal sunglasses used at lower altitudes won’t provide enough protection. **Gloves:** Waterproof, warm mountaineering gloves with a good grip. It’s best to have two pairs, one to keep dry at all times. **Baselayer:** Depending on your comfort and the temperature, a long-sleeve thermal shirt and leggings are ideal, though for warmer individuals, a technical, breathable T-shirt may suffice. **Fleece and Shirts:** Fleece and breathable technical shirts that dry quickly in case of sweating but are also warm enough for low temperatures and sudden weather changes. **Pants:** Softshell mountaineering pants, water-repellent and moderately warm, are ideal. They provide a good balance of protection and breathability. Avoid wearing full waterproof pants (like Gore-Tex) as they aren’t ideal for glacier walking, where breathability is more important. **Jackets and Down Jackets:** Essential to bring a warm, compressible down jacket that can be stored in the backpack with minimal space, and a windproof and waterproof shell jacket. A good down jacket and shell are worth the investment as they make a big difference in mountain conditions. Avoid cheap options as the quality of the material really matters when it’s cold, snowy, and rainy in the mountains! **Hat and Buff:** A wool hat and a couple of buffs or neck warmers are always useful to protect against cold winds, dry sweat from your forehead, and shield from the sun. **Socks:** Preferably trekking and mountaineering socks that are elastic and won’t cause discomfort. It’s useful to have a lighter pair for summer and a heavier one for colder conditions or traversing snowy glaciers. **Sunscreen and First Aid Kit:** Always carry a high SPF sunscreen (SPF 50) even on cloudy or foggy days. You may not notice the sun, but you’ll certainly feel the burn later! A small first aid kit with bandages, gauze, and personal medications is always useful, especially in case of minor injuries or scrapes from sharp equipment like crampons and ice axes. **Phone, GPS, Powerbank, Headlamp:** It’s a good idea to carry your phone, not just for photos but also to use in emergencies. A powerbank is essential, and it’s a good idea to bring a map or GPS watch as a backup. A headlamp is also useful, ensuring it’s fully charged before heading out. **Trekking Poles:** Not essential but can be very helpful on less steep glaciers. If you prefer using them, we recommend a foldable, 3-section trekking pole, which is easy to store in your backpack. **Food and Drinks:** In high altitudes, you often don’t have much time to stop. It’s better to carry lightweight, high-energy food (like dried fruit, energy bars, or a small sandwich) and at least 0.75-1 liter of water or hot tea in a thermos. That concludes the long but essential gear list. It’s an indicative list, and you can add more items, but it will serve as a reminder for the essential items you need to bring.