Mallorca climbing trip

Mallorca climbing trip

A 5-day climbing trip to the beautiful crags of Mallorca during early December. It’s not just DWS on this island, but plenty of rock, paella, and sangria!

Informazioni aggiuntive

In early December 2024, we went on a wonderful climbing trip to Spain, specifically to the island of Mallorca. It's famous for its cliffs, where climbers scale and then fall into the crystal-clear waters (called Psicobloc by locals, or Deep Water Solo in English), and where Chris Sharma made the Es Pontas arch famous. But climbing isn’t just limited to cliffs, so we decided to explore the beautiful Mallorcan crags for a few days. We took a very quick flight to Palma de Mallorca, and within 30 minutes by car, we reached the first crag. Ca’s Català is a beautiful wall ranging from 10 to 20 meters in height, with lovely grey limestone on the slabs and yellow-red rock in the more vertical and overhung sections. It’s perfect for spending a few hours on winter afternoons, conveniently located near the airport with a 10-minute approach. Oh, and don’t forget, you can climb in a t-shirt here when the sun’s out! ;) The next day, we headed towards Valldemossa, driving through a beautiful valley between high cliffs, realizing that compared to the few crags listed in the guidebooks, there’s still a lot of untouched rock to explore. The weather wasn’t great, and winter was definitely felt; we spent the cold, rainy morning exploring the small but charming town, sampling some local sweets, before heading to the S’estret crag, specifically the Pasiòn and Cuarentòn sectors. Beautiful rock and physical routes in the second sector, vertical and on spectacular red rock. Thanks to the wind, the walls dried quickly, and those who persevered through the cold fingers had a great time. The day started a bit slow but improved, and we ended it with a massive paella in a very typical restaurant in Palma. And sangria flowing freely… a real treat. On the third Spanish day, we ventured into the beautiful Sa Gubia canyon, where, depending on the level and desire for sunny walls, you can have a great time moving between sectors throughout the day. That’s exactly what we did: first, we climbed on slabs in the Silicona sector, catching the morning sun, with beautiful rock but challenging grades. Then we moved to the Paret dels Coloms, where long routes reign, from vertical to overhung, with holds, crimps, and pockets! The wall is amazing and especially enjoyable for those seeking routes graded 6b and above (the fantastic Pasteles de Isabel, a 30-meter 7b with amazing holds). A memorable day for everyone, climbing in t-shirts while enjoying this fantastic place and always looking up at the walls. Oh, and for anyone interested, there are also some multi-pitch routes in the canyon, like the Albahida, which runs with 5-6 pitches on a beautiful grey arete. Of course, the evening ended with more paella and local meat dishes. We’re getting used to this luxury. On the fourth day, we decided to explore the island's eastern coast, with an hour-long drive and a 45-minute approach that was totally worth it when we reached Cala Magraner. Truly a gem, located at the mouth of a river, ending in a beautiful pebble beach with crystal-clear water. On the entire left side of the canyon, there are walls ranging from grey to red, typical of this area, with routes for everyone, mainly from 5th to 6c+, and a sector 200 meters away with 7b and 7c routes. Climbing by the sea (literally) always lifts everyone’s spirits, and we saw people sending 6b+ routes that were graded very tightly! Alè! To make the most of the trip, we finished the day with a refreshing swim in this stunning cove. Ready for our last paella and sangria in Palma. And if our return flight is in the afternoon? Well, of course, we climbed on the last morning of our trip, getting a few routes in at Sa Cantera, a backup crag after finding a supposedly beautiful one that’s now inaccessible due to private land restrictions. But it didn’t matter; we soaked up as much sun as possible before returning to the cold, foggy Malpensa (for the record, it was 19°C in Palma de Mallorca on December 7). Five amazing days with a fantastic group of people! See you next time!