Luna nascente - Val di Mello

Luna nascente - Val di Mello

Luna nascente is maybe the most beautiful crack-climbing route in Val di Mello, elegant multipitch on "Scoglio della Metamorfosi". Perfect rock and climbing!

Informazioni aggiuntive

Every time it is a pleasure to return to Val di Mello to climb and if your curriculum is missing the famous Luna nascente, all you have to do is come with us! Luna is an unmissable route and its steep approach is certainly rewarded by the beauty and uniqueness of this itinerary. The cracks and slabs seem made specifically to be climbed, never too difficult and well climbable for those who master the 6a/6a+ grade as a follower climber. It's a trad route, there are no fixes along the route and you have to get by with only mobile protections and a few pitons in place.

9 lengths of rope to overcome this itinerary, but you wish a route like this would never end!

If you have never been to Val di Mello, we also recommend the beautiful "Il risveglio di Kundalini", slightly easier and which ends exactly at the base of Luna nascente. The combination of both routes on the same day is also feasible and is called Kundaluna: a 700 m journey reserved only for very well trained people with a good margin on the grade. This combination will definitely remain in your best climbing memories for a long time!

If you are interested in following other routes or spending 2 or 3 days in this valley accompanied by a Mountain Guide, do not hesitate to contact us via email or click on Whatsapp button! Together we will find the most suitable solution for you.


  • Climbing route that can be tackled in a day from Varese starting early in the morning, in about 2h 10' by car you reach the village of San Martino at the beginning of Val di Mello.

  • Approximately 1h30' of approach and 5 hours of climbing.

  • Route of 350 m of development and free difficulty up to 6b/6b+ (6a required)

  • Descent and return home in the evening. The day will be full!

Any changes to the itinerary (bad weather or impracticability of the route) will be communicated by the Guide as soon as possible and an alternative route of the same level will be provided.


  • 1 person: 420 euro

  • 2 people: 250 euro/each

The price includes: organisation, accompaniment and teaching by a Mountain Guide, RC insurance and use of common gear.


The fee does not include: travel costs, food and accommodation, cable cars (also for the Guide) extras and everything that is not included in the "fee" item. The expenses of the Guide will be divided among the participants.

The proposals reported are indicative of a general program. They may undergo variations at the sole discretion of the Alpine Guide depending on weather and snow conditions or other variables.


  • Harness, helmet, climbing shoes

  • Chalk

  • 2 HMS screw-lock carabiners

  • 1-2 D shape screw-lock carabiners

  • 1 kevlar for prusik (60 cm length) 

  • 1 kevlar for longe/abseil (120-130 cm length) or dyneema sling

  • Belay device like Reverso, ATC or similar devices

  • 20-30 liter backpack

  • Approach shoes with Vibram sole

  • Food/snacks, water for almost 8 hours of activity in the mountains

  • Appropriate clothes for a climbing day in the mountains at 2000 meters of altitude

Available dates

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